The short answer
The old town, the hill, the seafront, the port and the gardens need nothing at all. Museums are walk-in for most of the year. The things worth arranging in advance are beds, cars and, in high summer, tables.
Where to stay
This is the one that bites. Nice fills for the Carnival, for the summer, and whenever there is a large event along the coast — and when it fills, it fills completely.
Getting here and about
Airport transfers and car hire are worth sorting before you arrive rather than at the counter. Think hard before hiring a car for a stay inside the city: you will pay for parking and walk further from it than you would from the tram.
Storing bags
Useful on the first and last day — the city is walkable enough that a few hours between check-out and a train is worth having free.
